How to Save Money on Cat Toys

Kittens are naturally more rambunctious than adults, but all cats love to play. Even “senior” cats enjoy playing with their favorite toy in-between naptime. Consequently, cat toys are an important element of good feline care. Cat toys do more than just entertain your kitty, though; they also give your cat an outlet for excess energy, provide needed exercise (especially important for indoor cats), and can be a fun way to bond with your cat. However, this doesn’t mean you need to spend a fortune on toys for cats. 

Since how to save money is on just about every person’s mind nowadays, I wanted to share some economical ways to keep your kitty entertained. There are basically three ways to spend less on toys for cats. The first one is seasonal: shop the after-Christmas clearance sales at your local pet stores. Most carry an inventory of holiday gifts for pets, such as stockings filled with cat toys or individual items that have a holiday theme. Last year I came home with a huge bag of cat toys that were 75% off, and I paid less than $10 for all of it. 

My three felines probably have enough cat toys to last a lifetime now. If not, my second idea for how to save money on cat toys involves buying inexpensive items that cats love to play with. My favorite of these is ping pong balls, which have an unpredictably wild bounce that cats find irresistible. If you buy them in bulk, they can cost as little as 25 cents each, and also won’t get stepped on later. Straws are another feline favorite in my house. I found this out after I caught my cat Rocky stealing them right out of my drink! He loves to flip the straw up in the air and try to catch it. 

If your cat enjoys catnip (some do, some don’t), you can buy some fabric and catnip to make homemade catnip toys. Little pillow-shaped catnip toys are what I usually make, because they’re incredibly easy to assemble. Just cut out two squares of fabric (about 3”), sew three sides closed, fill it with catnip and sew the fourth side shut. If you don’t like to sew, you can also fill a child’s sock with catnip, tie a knot in it and voila! Instant homemade cat toy.

My third idea for how to save money on cat toys (and my personal favorite) involves using readily available materials found in your home. Once you understand what makes a good cat toy – things that roll, bounce, simulate “prey” or make noise – the potential for free homemade cat toys is practically limitless. Crumple a piece of paper into a ball and throw it across the room for your cat to chase. My sister’s cat will even bring it back, over and over. None of my cats will fetch the paper ball, but they will run after it and bat it around for a bit. 

A piece of string or twine is the ultimate cheap cat toy. My cats will chase a string around the house for hours, and they’ll jump up for it if I dangle the string several feet from the floor. I also like to tie one of their furry mice to the end and drag it around so they can chase after it. It’s very important, though, to always put the string away when you’re done playing, because your cat might swallow it and become ill. 

Paper sacks are another classic cat toy that doesn’t cost a penny, and I’ve never met a kitty that didn’t like to get into them and rustle around. If you have 35mm film canisters, you can fill them with anything that rattles, such as pebbles, pasta or beans. Just make sure the lid is on tight before giving it to your kitty. Boxes are another great free cat toy. You can even construct a kitty playhouse by fastening several large boxes together. Cut out holes for your cat to walk through and stick their paws through, and place the box upside down on the floor. 

Empty toilet paper tubes make excellent toys for cats. I have a similar tube that is thicker, sturdier, and about half the length. I can’t remember where it came from initially, but I saved it because I knew my cats would enjoy playing with it, and they do. Before you throw anything away, you should always ask yourself if the item might somehow become a cat toy. There’s a very good chance that it can, and your kitty will have just as much fun playing with his homemade cat toy as he will with a store-bought one. That’s the beauty of cats – they’re easy to please, at least when it comes to their toys!

Julia Williams

Boxer, Breed Profile

I grew up with Boxers, though one at a time. When I was a little girl, my dad who was in the Air Force was stationed in Texas. We had a brindle colored boxer whose name was Duchess (Dutchie) then; and there are pictures of Mom, Dad, Dutchie and I playing on the shore of the Gulf of Mexico. According to my mom, Dutchie and I were pretty much inseparable. She slept on my bed every night; she even chose to have her puppies on my bed. While I didn’t realize it at the time, it was an honor for me that Duchess felt safe enough to have them in full view of the world and not somewhere hidden away in a closet where she could keep them safer. I was only between one and two years old when she had them, so maybe she felt it was easier to keep watch on all her charges if they were in one place, as she counted me as one as well.

The Boxer is a breed that was recognized by the American Kennel Club (AKC) in 1904 and is a member of the Working group. It can trace its bloodlines back to a Mastiff type dog called the Molossus. The Boxer we know today was developed during the nineteenth century in Germany. The Boxer’s popularity has been steady but has grown in the last few years and the Boxer is now the sixth most popular dog breed according to the AKC. The Boxer has been used in the past as a guard, a courier during war time, a cart dog, a companion and hunter of large game. Today the Boxer is used as a police dog, for search and rescue, in military work, for performing tricks, in Schutzhund and competitive obedience trials. The Boxer needs to be exercised daily, though they can live in an apartment, as long as this requirement is met. 

The adult Boxer should weigh between 53-70 pounds (24-29kg) with the bitches being the lighter, and size range for males should be between 22 to 25 inches and bitches should be between 21 to 24 inches at the withers. Their life span is usually between 11 and 14 years. They can to be troubled by hip dysplasia and epilepsy. Cardiomyopathy and other heart problems have also been reported. They can also suffer from allergies. They have a short coat that is easy to care for, and we used to use a bristled palm brush or a rubber mitt for the best results when brushing ours. A daily brushing is good during the shedding season, but they don’t need too many baths unless they get dirty. Fewer baths and frequent brushing will help keep the natural oils in the dog’s coat.

According to the breed standard of the AKC the temperament and character of the Boxer is as follows: “Instinctively a hearing guard dog, his bearing is alert, dignified and self-assured. In the show ring his behavior should exhibit constrained animation. With family and friends, his temperament is fundamentally playful, yet patient and stoical with children. Deliberate and wary with strangers, he will exhibit curiosity, but, most importantly, fearless courage if threatened. However, he responds promptly to friendly overtures honestly rendered. His intelligence, loyal affection, and tractability to discipline make him a highly desirable companion.”

In my opinion a boxer is a great family dog. I grew up with three different boxers; Duchess the first, Jayne, and Duchess the second. Both of the Duchess’ were raised from puppies and were easy to train, Jayne on the other hand was gotten as an adult, and was too much for my parents to handle. So training for this breed should be a must. My parents ended up giving Jayne back to the breeder with the promise of a puppy to come. That puppy was Duchess the second, and she was another of my playmates.

Boxers love their humans and are especially wonderful around children and both of the Duchess’ were no exception. Dutchie the first saved us from an inmate of a mental hospital about 20 miles to the north of us. He had walked away from the facility and no one saw him leave. We were inside the house playing and my mom was home, so there was no “real” danger, but Dutchie didn’t know that.

While my mom was calling the police, Dutchie put herself between us and the door the man was standing outside, and raised a “Holy ruckus”, as my mother described it later.

Dutchie (the second) used to try and “save” us when we went swimming in the pool in the backyard. We would swim underwater and she would race around the pool barking for us to come back up, before throwing herself in to grab one of us by the hair and try to drag us out of the pool. She taught herself to jump off the diving board after seeing us do it, and she would dive to the bottom of the shallow end after a ball if we tossed it for her. She even taught herself to climb out the vertical ladder in the deep end of the pool, instead of swimming back to the shallow end where she could exit via the steps.

I have wonderful memories about the special Boxers in my life and can heartily recommend them to anyone with the time and love to give them. They are great playmates and babysitters that never let us out of their sight. They never tired of playing with us when we wanted to play and didn’t have a human playmate. The most important thing that they helped teach me was unconditional love, and for that I am truly grateful.

Leashes and Leads, at 6214 Fourteenth Street NW in Byron, Minnesota is hosting a Meet & Greet on April 18, 2009 from 11:00pm Central Time to 3:00pm Central Time. So if you are in the area, stop by to meet the Boxer. You can find out more information by contacting Leashes and Leads at (507) 282-2710 or going to their website.

Ruthie Bently

Lessons I Learned From My Cats

Have you learned any lessons from your cat? As a writer, I am always looking for interesting things to write about. My dogs have taught me many things and as I got to spend part of my Saturday this past weekend outside doing chores, I was able to watch my cats at length. I realized watching them that they have taught me lessons too, if I take the time to see what they are.

When you have a chance to watch cats outside en masse, you can learn many things. While they will sleep with each other, when they are outside they truly are independent and in their element. They hunt and play and race around so fast that you worry that they may run into something because they are going so fast. Yet at the same time, cats are graceful and move with a fluidity that a ballet dancer would admire.

My cats have taught me patience, persistence, love, caring and a selflessness that borders on sainthood. I have learned patience watching a mother cat carry her kittens back to safety after I have shown them where the cat food dish is. The kittens are being weaned and they come downstairs to eat, but the stairs to the attic are a bit steep and just a bit too much for them to handle all at one time yet. So they cry in the kitchen and their mother comes down and carries them back up to the attic where she can hide them away from the toms that though they are altered, still want nothing to do with kittens.

They have taught me patience when I am watching them chase a leaf or feather around the yard outside. One cat will bat their toy of choice; another one will race in and carry it off. Sometimes a third cat will get involved in the chase, but the first cat will seldom give up the chase and go and find another leaf or feather to play with. I have watched them play this game for hours, without getting bored. It seems to me that it would almost be easier to go and get another toy to play with, but they want the one they started with and usually the first cat playing isn’t the one to get bored first.

I have learned love, caring and selflessness from cats with litters, who share the responsibility of raising all the kittens. If a kitten is crying because they need to eat, and their mother is not available, usually another cat will step in and lay down to allow the kitten crying to be able to nurse. I have watched them clean another cat’s kitten, and if the kitten is too small to go to the bathroom on their own yet, the adult queen will clean there too.

I have also learned persistence from several of the cats, which if left outside and they want to be inside will bang on the door with a paw or like Tiger (my most persistent) will actually climb to the level of the door window, hang on the door molding by the toenails of one of his paws and bang on the window with his other paw. I have never actually timed him, because I know someone is outside that wants to come inside, so they get let in. I find the most interesting thing about Tiger is, that no one else does it so no one else taught him, he figured it out on his own. Imagine my surprise the first time I went downstairs to see who was knocking at my door, only to be met by Tiger’s face when I opened it.

Last but surely not least, they have taught me to remember to go out and play every once in a while. We all need to be recharged and it is so easy for the cats to go out and play. If I want playtime for a game of ball with Skye or to watch the cats outside, I have to make sure it gets into my schedule. Thanks to my cats and Skye, I now take the time to do just that, because I have found that even I need a break from the office or my chores every now and then. Even a fifteen minute break watching the cats, can put a smile on my face and we could all use a smile or a chuckle now and then.

Ruthie Bently

How to Train Your Cat to Use a Scratching Post

I share my home with three felines, and am continually reminded of the old saying, “Patience is a virtue.” Don’t get me wrong – I adore my cats and love having them in my home. But cats are stubborn creatures that can test the patience of a saint. My cat Rocky decided early on that my wall-to-wall carpet was his own personal, giant-sized scratching post. As you can imagine, that didn’t work for me, and I made it my personal mission to put an end to his carpet scratching ways. 

To successfully train your cat to use a scratching post in lieu of your carpet or furniture, you need to first understand why they scratch. Most people believe a cat scratches to sharpen its claws, which is true in that scratching removes the outer portion of the claw to reveal a sharp new tip. But cats also scratch to claim territory and mark their turf, both with visible signs of claw marks and the scent glands on their paws. They also scratch for exercise and stress relief, like a feline version of Yoga or Pilates. Lastly, cats scratch because it’s a natural behavior that feels good. 

As you can see, there’s no point in trying to get your cat to stop scratching, because it won’t. Instead, you can re-direct its impulse to scratch to a more appropriate place, aka, the cat scratching post or scratching pad. Nowadays, there’s a large variety of scratching post materials and styles available, from carpet to sisal to corrugated card board. The most important thing you should know is that you might need to try several different kinds before you find the scratching surface your cat prefers. 

Also keep in mind that some cats favor vertical scratching surfaces, some prefer horizontal surfaces, and some will use either. My own battle with Rocky’s inappropriate scratching was prolonged because I tried to force him to become a vertical scratcher. Secondly, I thought that getting a carpeted scratching post would discourage him from scratching my carpet. After much trial and error, I realized I was wrong on both counts. He now uses his carpeted scratching post, but only because I turned it sideways so he could scratch horizontally. 

There are several tricks you can use when training your cat to use a scratching post. First, resist the urge to put the post in a little-used corner of your home. Your cat wants to mark his territory where he spends most of his time, which isn’t (usually) the bedroom closet or the laundry room. You can gradually move the scratching post to a less visible location once it’s been accepted by your cat as his territory. Ideally, you should set up posts in several different locations, so that when the urge to scratch strikes, there is one handy.

Encourage your cat to check out the scratching post by offering him treats near it. Hold the treat up near the post or put it on the post so that your cat’s paws touch the surface of the post to get the treat. Toys that dangle from a string are another great way to train your cat to use a scratching post. Play with your cat near the post and move the toy around the post so that when it tries to get its toy, it invariably climbs up the post. If your feline loves catnip, sprinkle some liberally all over the surface of the post and it will go bonkers rubbing it, kneading it and eventually, scratching it. 

Training your cat to use a scratching post takes time, patience and perseverance. Keep in mind that cats are creatures of habit. Use that to your advantage by taking them over to their post when you get up in the morning, and whenever you come home from being away. I did that consistently for several months, and now all my cats run to their scratching posts at those times, usually without my urging. Yes, even my notorious carpet scratcher uses his post multiple times every day – which is something of a minor miracle!

Julia Williams

My Pet Went Over the Rainbow Bridge

I have lost several animals that were in my life; five dogs, numerous cats, two cows, a goat, numerous chickens, geese and ducks; along with several parakeets, goldfish, tropical fish, and a hamster, which were the usual childhood pets in our household. Some I grew up with and some I have owned myself. Through the vagaries of old age, illness or disease they have passed over the Rainbow Bridge. 

The hardest thing to explain to someone who has never had a pet; is the grief you feel when you have lost a pet. It can be as strong for a pet, as it can for any human member of your family. After losing one family pet that I had grown up with, I had a dream about her. She was a Boxer and her name was Duchess, and I dreamed I answered the door one night just after dusk and she was standing there bathed in the glow from the porch light with all my previous pets sitting on her back, or perched on her head. I felt as if she were trying to tell me that she was OK, but that didn’t make the loss any easier to take.

The most important advice I can give you at this point is that you are allowed to grieve and should let yourself do so. Do not deny yourself that period of mourning, for a wonderful companion that you spent so much time with. I go through stages when I lose an animal friend that I hold dear. Depending on the situation, I get angry, and ask why a lot; or I get sad and cry a lot. According to the experts I am not alone; many people feel guilt, anger and denial along with their grief. They mention that your deep sadness on your pet’s passing can turn into a temporary depression. Just because they are an animal with four legs instead of two, the grief can be just as crushing. 

Because I live in the country, we can bury animals on the property and we have a place in one end of the yard where we hold our funerals and burials. Then I plant flowers and place a stone. If you live in a city and are not allowed to bury your animals at home, you do have alternatives. Your can have your pet cremated and the vet can give you the ashes to either take home or bury. Or you can buy a casket for your pet and there are now pet cemeteries where you can hold a funeral service and burial. You could write your own service and have members of your family share their memories. If your own clergy-person feels uncomfortable about officiating at a service for your pet you may now even hire an animal minister or chaplain to conduct the service. There are also many counseling and support groups for owners of pets that have passed on. 

I would like to pass on something to you that someone passed on to me after the loss of my first dog Nimber. It helped me, and it is called the “Rainbow Bridge Poem”.

Just this side of heaven is a place called Rainbow Bridge.

When an animal dies that has been especially close to someone here, that pet goes to Rainbow Bridge. There are meadows and hills for all of our special friends so they can run and play together. There is plenty of food, water and sunshine, and our friends are warm and comfortable.

All the animals who had been ill and old are restored to health and vigor. Those who were hurt or maimed are made whole and strong again, just as we remember them in our dreams of days and times gone by. The animals are happy and content, except for one small thing; they each miss someone very special to them, who had to be left behind.

They all run and play together, but the day comes when one suddenly stops and looks into the distance. His bright eyes are intent; His eager body quivers. Suddenly he begins to run from the group, flying over the green grass, his legs carrying him faster and faster.

You have been spotted, and when you and your special friend finally meet, you cling together in joyous reunion, never to be parted again. The happy kisses rain upon your face; your hands again caress the beloved head, and you look once more into the trusting eyes of your pet, so long gone from your life but never absent from your heart.

Then you cross Rainbow Bridge together.

Author unknown

I keep promising that I will not get another dog, and then a higher power intervenes and I find myself with a new bundle of joy. I now keep a journal, where I write about the daily comings and goings of the animal cast of characters on the farm. Then I have something to look back on and smile about after the next one passes on. So I will go through the joys, tears, laughter and sorrow of living with a dog again. I know I will see them all again when I pass over the Rainbow Bridge and can be with them once more.

Ruthie Bently

Top 10 Reasons Pets Go To The Vet

Did you take your pet to the vet last year? If so, you are in good company. More than 75% of pet owning households take their pets to the vet every year. About 1/4 of pet-owning households go to the vet four or more times per year. Routine veterinary checkups and vaccinations are the most common reason that pets go to the vet each year.

I have 3 dogs – Frog, Hank and Sophie. I was curious about the most common reasons that pets go to the vet so I did some checking and what I found was pretty interesting.

According to the Veterinary Pet Insurance Company, their policyholders visited the vet in 2008 for various reasons. They made a top ten list for dogs and cats, not including routine veterinary care. The top reason for dogs was ear infections and the top reason for cats was lower urinary tract diseases. 

So, how did my own dogs fare according to the veterinary top ten? Well, one of my three dogs did have an ear infection, number 1 on the list. I did not fare so well with numbers 4, 5, 6 and 7 on the list: 4. gastritis/vomiting, 5. enteritis/diarrhea, 6. urinary tract infections and 7. benign skin tumors. 

My old lady Beagle, Frog, was the queen of 4, 6 and 7. She had to be treated for persistent vomiting (caused by number 6, urinary tract infection) and also had a benign skin tumor removed from her leg. 

My big yellow Lab Hank was treated for 4 & 5 due to consumption of the stuffing from his bed. Oops!

The newest addition, our stray Lab mix Sophie did the best. She did have to get her vaccinations and get spayed, but (knock on wood) , has not been treated for any illness since she came to live with us.

Check out the full top ten lists for dogs and cats on VPI’s website.

Top Canine Claims	Top Feline Claims
1.  Ear Infections	1.  Lower Urinary Tract Disease
2.  Skin Allergies	2.  Gastritis/Stomach Upsets
3.  Pyoderma/Hot Spots	3.  Chronic Renal Failure
4.  Gastritis/Vomiting	4.  Enteritis/Diarrhea
5.  Enteritis/Diarrhea	5.  Diabetes Mellitus
6.  Urinary Tract Infections	6.  Skin Allergies
7.  Benign Skin Tumors	7.  Hyperthyroidism
8.  Osteoarthritis	8.  Ear Infections
9.  Eye Inflammation	9.  Upper Respiratory Virus
10. Hypothyroidism	10. Eye Inflammation

Melissa Brookshire, DVM

Puppy Classes are Not Just for Training

Sounds funny doesn’t it? What are you taking the puppy to classes for if not to train them? Well, your new family member needs to be socialized as well as learning what the rules are. Your new dog has become a member of your pack (family) and just like any other family (or pack) member they need to learn the dos and dont's of what is allowed, not just in your home but out in public. And as funny as this may sound, they need to learn what other dogs are and how to behave around them.

I chose to train my dog Katie at home. My older dog was ill and I didn’t want to be away from him for too long, but I should have taken the time to go to a class where Katie could meet other dogs. This was a drawback to training at home for me that I didn’t realize at the time. Katie was a stray on the streets and was found with her sister at about 4 weeks old. Her health became an issue for her due to her beginnings; and when I adopted her, it was suggested that I not take any chances introducing germs or stress which could aggravate her condition.

So I chose to train Katie at home, after all I trained Nimber (with the help of a class). “How hard could it be?” I asked myself. I should have remembered that first of all, I had a terrier on my hands. She learned, but very slowly and was always antsy during training, as if she had somewhere else to be.

Besides the obvious reason for a training class, learning the basic commands of sit, stay, down, heel, and come; your puppy gets to go in the car for a different reason than going to the vet, they get to go for a ride with you and get more used to traveling in the car, which is another plus.

The most important thing that Katie missed from going to a class was the socialization and the “meet and greet” with the other puppies in the class. She loved the dog she lived with and after he passed she loved the dog that came after him. But she disliked any other dog she met with a passion that bordered on irrational. She had never had any bad encounters with any dogs she met -- they pretty much ignored her. I wish I could say that Katie did the same, she barked and carried on so, you would have thought I was keeping her from her favorite bone. Unfortunately for Katie, she didn’t get to go for rides very often because she had such temper tantrums, it was easier to leave her at home; and unfortunately for me I did not have access to a behavioral trainer back then or even a dog park where I could have taken her when she was a puppy.

Besides your class for meeting and greeting, you now have other options that were not available to me. Now there are dog parks where you can go to meet other dogs. There are doggie day care facilities where your dog can go for playtime while you have to work. Another great place to socialize your puppy or dog is your local pet shop. Most pet shops will allow dogs in their stores, as long as you walk them outside in case they have to “potty”, before bringing them into the store. Some stores like to offer the dog a biscuit, at some it’s a pat and a hug; some stores even have special events where they invite the dog into the store.

Whichever path you choose, training class, private trainer or do-it-yourself; make sure you don’t forget to socialize your puppy well. Katie was not, and though she was a gem to the cats, Smokey her canine cohort, my family, myself and any human she met, she was obnoxious where other dogs were concerned. So take a tip from my book of personal anecdotes and get your puppy socialized. Your relationship with each other and other dogs will be that much better for it.

Ruthie Bently

Why Do Cats Hunt?

Has your cat ever left you a present on your door mat that you stepped on by accident? Has your cat ever presented you with the remains of a mouse or bug? The best thing to do in this situation is to praise your cat and make a happy fuss over the remains, before disposing of them as discreetly as you can without your cat seeing you do it. Believe it or not, all cats hunt whether feral or domesticated, outdoor or indoor.

Yes, even those wonderful purring machines that love to sit in your lap and cuddle, hunt. My cats never used to go outside, so I was presented with all sorts of odd things when they were “hunting” in the house. They would bring me twist ties, buttons, pencil stubs, bottle caps, and the occasional fly or ladybug that had been unlucky enough to get in the house. They brought whatever they happened to find that they could carry to me. While I thought this was very entertaining, I never really gave it much thought. After all, I had taught them to fetch toys and things, so I thought that was what they were doing, except that some of the things they found I had not tossed for them. Now I know better, they were bringing me the bounty of their hunt.

There are a few schools of thought as to why they will bring you their prey. Ethologist Paul Leyhausen proposes that cats adopt their humans into the social group. As humans, he believes that we are at the top of the pecking order and therefore rate to share the “kill”. Desmond Morris, the author of “Catwatching”, believes on the other hand that they are trying to teach us to hunt much as they would one of their own kittens. Still a third idea is that this behavior is a relic of a kitten trying to gain the approval of its mother, as to its hunting prowess.

There are also some misconceptions about cats hunting. A cat that has been declawed can still hunt, I know I owned one. Keentya used to bat any mouse that entered his domain with his front paws. It seemed to me that he had stunned the mouse with this activity. It never went farther than that if I was around; I would rescue the mouse and put it outside. But Keentya was no slouch when it came to hunting without front claws.

While mother cats (queens) teach their kittens to hunt, the instinct to do so is hard-wired into the kitten. The mother teaches the kitten to hunt, to augment their skills and become a better hunter. I have seen orphaned kittens that are unbelievable hunters, using just as much stealth and cunning as their adult counterparts.

Cats do not necessarily prefer birds or mice; they hunt where the opportunity presents itself and will hunt the trail of least resistance. For example, if my cat Munchkin can get to a mouse on the ground, she will do that as opposed to climbing up the barn roof to try to catch a pigeon that can fly away from her. We have had an issue with the occasional bird, but thankfully those events are few and far between, as the cats know I am displeased when they bring a bird home.

Living in the country now, I spend as much time outside in nice weather as I can and so do the cats. They hunt grasshoppers and other insects, mice, voles, elephant shrews, and rats. Sometimes I am gifted with an entire mouse, sometimes just a bit of what is left. I don’t think they are trying to teach me to hunt, I think they are bringing me a trophy. They don’t seem to be distressed after the trophy is missing; they just go and get another one. 

I have become philosophical where the cats are concerned. If I continue to let them outside they will continue to hunt, no matter how well-fed on CANIDAE Cat and Kitten they are. However, they are ridding us of vermin that are not welcome in our garden, chicken house or home. Because of the skills of my feline family I don’t need to use chemicals or bug repellants to get rid of the mice, rats or other things we find around the farm and for that I am truly grateful.

So if your feline friend brings you home a treasure one day, remember to smile and show how proud of them you are. They could just be saving your pantry.

Ruthie Bently

Snake Aversion Therapy for Dogs

Spring is in the air and with this beautiful season follows the arrival of rattlesnakes. If you live in the US, you’ve probably had at least one experience with snakes, and if you live in the Southwest, you’ve probably had a few. 

If you’re out hiking with your dog and stumble across a rattler, what is the best course of action? First off, you should have your dog on a leash at all times – even while on a trailhead. This will help, but oftentimes, it won’t be enough. Snakes have a tendency to lie across the trail or out in the open where they can absorb the heat from the sun. They can be difficult to see if you’re not paying attention, so try to always pay attention. 

If you’re dog attacks or doesn’t see it in time, and is struck by the snake, try not to panic. Get out of there, and if possible, carry your dog out. Adrenaline will increase heart rate, which will increase the spread of poison. Chances are good that your dog was struck in the throat, and if that’s the case, you need to ensure he or she can breathe. The poison will cause intense swelling, which can close off your dog’s airway. Get him or her to the vet as soon as humanly possible. Do not stop and try to suck out the poison (it doesn’t work and can end up killing you). Just get to a vet. 

Of course, the best thing to do is teach your dog to avoid snakes altogether. This can be done through a series of snake aversion training by a certified trainer. 

There are many ways to train a dog to avoid snakes, but aversion therapy is one of the best I’ve seen. Yes, it uses static electricity collars. Yes, it’s difficult to watch. Yes, it will likely save your dog’s life in the long run. The good thing is that it only needs to be done once in most cases. It’s a lesson they’ll remember for the rest of their lives. 

A good trainer will teach dogs to avoid snakes using sight, sound and smell. Ensure that the trainer you use has a long line of references and positive feedback from previous clients. They will lead your dog through a “rattlesnake” course, using snakes that have been rescued from the backyards of terrified homeowners. The snakes should later be released into the wild – ensure you find a humane trainer who handles the snakes humanely. 

Depending on the dogs reaction, there are several events that can occur. These depend on the training methods used. Snake aversion therapy is one of the few training events I would ever use a collar for, because it’s that important for the dog to associate a strong reaction with seeing or hearing or smelling a snake. 

If you’re interested in taking your dog in for “snake aversion” therapy, check your local listings for a qualified, accomplished trainer who offers humane methods of training. Ensure that they treat the “volunteer snakes” well, and you’ll be in good shape. 

It might just save your dog’s life....

ASPCA Poison Control Hotline

1-888-426-4435

Note:  There is a $60 charge for this service.

The National Animal Poison Control Center (NAPPC)

1-800-548-2423

1-900-680-0000

Note: If you call the 1-900 number, the charge is $20.00 for the first five minutes, then $2.95/minute thereafter. If you use the 800 number, the charge is $30.00 per case.

Stacy Mantle

How to Pick the Best Dog Toy

Today when you walk into your favorite pet shop there are many more toy options for dogs than there used to be. There are a few things to consider when buying toys for your dog. Do you need toys for a puppy, or adult dog? There are a few things to keep in mind when buying dog toys.

First of all you want to buy toys that are age appropriate. For example, if you have an older dog that loves to tug and is trained to “drop” their toys, by all means buy them a tug. However, this is not a good choice for a puppy starting out, because they may not want to let go of the tug when you want them to. The problem this presents is that if the puppy has the TV remote or your cell phone, you need to be able to recover them from the puppy without too much fuss.

Another thing to consider is buying toys that are size appropriate. If you have a 120 pound Bullmastiff you wouldn’t buy a toy that is more suited to a Pomeranian. You don’t want to get a puppy toy for a full grown dog, no matter how cute it is. The reason I say this is that a puppy’s teeth will not usually do the same damage to a toy as an adult dog’s teeth. An adult dog can make mincemeat of a puppy toy pretty quickly, because their teeth are fully developed while a puppy is still getting their teeth. On the other hand, getting a toy a puppy can grow into is not as farfetched as it sounds. Puppies can grow very quickly and that toy that you brought home last week may be too small next week. 

You should also gauge the activity level for your dog when considering a toy. If you have a couch potato with a low activity level that loves to chew, you don’t necessarily want to get them a Frisbee that will take a lot of activity to chase around. While I agree exercise is great for dogs, you need to determine their activity level before getting them a toy that may be too far above their current activity level. Just as we need to work up to a certain activity level, so do our dogs. So if you want to get that Frisbee go ahead, but remember that you should start with 5 to 10 minutes of activity if your dog is not used to any at all.

Last but by no means least you should consider the chewing level of your dog when buying them a toy. I have had American Staffordshire Terriers since 1981 and thought I was well-versed in their tricks with their toys. However I learned something that I have been telling my customers for years, “Every dog is different”. While I knew this myself, I got a refresher lesson, courtesy of Skye.

I made the mistake of buying Skye a rope bone with two tennis balls on it. I was going to toss it and she would go catch it and bring it back to me, at least that is what I thought. Skye had another idea. The first time we got to go outside to play with it, I threw it, and Skye went and got it. So far so good, however Skye decided to test out the strength of the tennis balls. She put her foot down on one end of the tug to hold it still and grabbed one of the tennis balls in her mouth. The tennis ball “popped” like a balloon, and that was the end of one of the tennis balls on Skye’s new rope bone. The toy now resides in the toy box, and I’m not sure I even want to give it to her again. While Skye was pleased with herself, I was worried about how quickly the tennis ball came apart and how many pieces she made of it in less than a minute’s time. I would not want her to swallow one of those tennis ball pieces if I give her the toy again, so in the toy box it stays until I figure out who has a dog small enough to gift it to.

If you remember these easy tips by buying toys that are appropriate for the age, size and activity level of your dog, not to mention their chewing level and ability; you will save yourself time and money and have a few less headaches in the bargain.

Ruthie Bently

Cleaning Your Pet’s Dishes and Food Storage Containers

It is important for your pet’s health that you keep their food and water dishes clean. You should also periodically clean the container that their food is kept in. Food and water dishes should be cleaned daily and the water should be fresh every day to promote adequate water consumption. If something fouls your pet’s water they are less likely to drink water. While a pet can go several weeks without food, they will die after a few days without proper water intake. The food dishes can harbor fat particles that in time can become rancid if the dishes are not cleaned regularly.

While you or I may not be able to smell anything funny in their dishes, your pet will and may refuse to eat if their dishes aren’t clean enough for them. I wash my pets’ dishes everyday as well a making sure that they have clean water every day. I wash my pet food storage container once a week. I use stainless steel dishes, which are pretty easy to keep clean; but how do you clean some of the other surfaces like ceramic or plastic?

On ceramic dishes you can use a sponge with a scrubber side, but I would not recommend it for your plastic dishes, as the scrubbers on some of those sponges are strong enough to leave grooves in some plastic dishes, which in turn can harbor bacteria. So for the plastic, just use a regular sponge and elbow grease to get the dishes squeaky clean. Use a detergent that will take grease off dishes and make sure to check the dishes with your fingers after scrubbing. You would be amazed what you can find with your fingers, especially if you have a dish that is a color that hides dirt or grime.

You can probably wash some of your dishes in the dishwasher, but if you are using a plastic bowl with a weighted bottom, the heat and water in the dishwasher might soften the glue and make the bottom of the dish fall out of the base. I would check with your pet shop to make sure the bowls you are purchasing are dishwasher safe; if that is the way you choose to go. I like washing dishes the old-fashioned way, because I can feel any grease or grunge left on the dishes, even if I can’t see it.

As to washing the storage container, using a good sponge and elbow grease is my best advice. Here again you want to use a de-greasing detergent to get any old fat off the container’s sides, if you are just dumping the food from the bag directly into the storage container. After cleaning and rinsing, air dry if possible. If that isn’t an option, get an old towel and make sure that you dry your container (including the lid) thoroughly before you put the pet food back in.

If my container still has a bit of odor in it after I clean it, I use a tablespoon of baking soda mixed with about a cup of water and wipe the sides and top of the container with this mix. Then I rinse it very well and let it sit for a few hours to dry it out. Something I have been doing recently is leaving the food in the bags they came in and put them in the container.

I started doing this a while ago after a friend ended up with a storage container full of grain beetles (due to not cleaning regularly enough). Grain beetles will not hurt your pets, they are protein after all; but they will eat the food and lay eggs and you can end up with an infestation in your kitchen cabinets if you aren’t careful. I still completely wash the container after the food has been fed and the bag is discarded. There can still be fat in the container from food spillage or from handling that you may not be able to see.

Ruthie Bently

What is Your Pet’s Normal Heart Rate and Temperature?

Have you ever called the veterinarian worried about your pet, only to have the good doctor ask you if your pet is running a fever? Or what if he or she has an elevated heart rate? More than likely, you didn’t have an answer to that question, or you reached down and felt your dog’s nose to see if it was “cold and wet” like all the books say it should be. Well, here is the opportunity to bone up on a little Pet Med 101. The following information will help you come up with the correct answers for your veterinarian, and help you make a better informed decision on whether your pet needs immediate medical assistance or whether you’re just overreacting.

The Averages	Temperature	Heart Rate
Dog (30 lbs or less)	100.5 – 102.5	100-160 bpm
Dog (30 lbs +)	100.5 – 102.5	100-160 bpm
Puppy	100.5 – 102.5	120-160 bpm
Cat	100.5 – 102.5	120-220 bpm

How to Check Your Pet’s Heart Rate

1. Allow the animal to stand naturally, keeping pet calm by petting or talking to it. (A stressed animal’s heart rate will increase, creating a higher reading.)
   
2. Place the stethoscope over the animal’s heart. If you have problems locating the heart rate, this is a simple way to find it:
   1. Ask the animal to lie on its right side.
      
   2. Gently bend the animals left front leg at the elbow, allowing it to touch their chest.
      
   3. The area where the elbow touches the chest is the place where you should place your hand or a stethoscope, as it is the best place to hear a strong heartbeat.
      
      1. Note: Make a mental note of this area and allow the animal to regain it’s feet and relax, as forcing it to lie down could create stress. Taking an animal’s heart rate while it is stressed will occur in an increased rate and a false reading.
3. Count the beats that hear or feel for 15 seconds by watching a second hand on a clock or watch.
   
4. Multiply the number of beats that you counted by 4.
   
5. This is the BPM or Beats Per Minute.
   
6. Using the chart above, you will be able to determine whether your pet’s heart rate is within normal range. If it is below or above the normal range, contact your veterinarian immediately for further instructions.

Stacy Mantle